Frequently Asked Questions - Custom Aquariums

Majestic Stands and Canopies FAQs (Watch Our Video on Our Majestic Stands and Canopies)

What if I want a stand style or wood type different than what you show on your web site?
Are the stands constructed with any particleboard?
Can I order a stand without a canopy?
Do you have other color finishes available?
Why is there no top on the canopy?
Do your stands have a solid back and top? Why is that important?
What kind of waterproof coating do your stands have?

Delivery and Installation FAQs

How do I get the aquarium into my house?
Why is the lead time so long?
Can I have Custom Aquariums do the install?
How do I qualify for free delivery?
How do I know my aquarium will arrive in tact?
Do I have to drive a long ways to pick up my aquarium, or will you deliver to my door?
What has to be assembled once I get my aquarium?

Lifetime Aquariums®

What are the advantages of an aluminum aquarium frame compared to a plastic frame?

Most mass-produced aquariums are made with injection-molded plastic tops. Although these usually a while without a problem, eventually it can become brittle, particularly when exposed to UV light. As the Acrylic vs. Glass comparison explained, plastic is porous and absorbs moisture. Combined with exposure to UV light, it will create a situation where, over an extended period, a plastic top can fail and lead to a total failure of the aquarium. This is far less probable with our reinforced aluminum frame.

How is the center brace stronger than other aquariums?

Our Lifetime Aquariums® have marine-grade anodized aluminum center supports reinforced with a secondary aluminum bracket and riveted for extra strength. No longer is the center bracket a long-term failure risk! Our anodized, aluminum frames will never turn brittle and crack like a plastic one.

What sizes can be made with the Lifetime Aquarium® system?

Our proprietary aluminum frame system adds strength and durability, allowing us to custom-build virtually any size and maintain commercial-grade strength and a professional look.

What are the glass thickness options?

We offer 3/8″, 1/2”, 5/8”, and 3/4”, all of which can be tempered. We can also source other thicknesses on a case-by-case basis for custom orders. We also have a low-iron “ultra-clear” option for all thicknesses. For each panel on your tank, you can select any thickness, tempered or non-tempered, and regular clarity or ultra-clear.

Will the aluminum frame corrode?

The bracing used is marine-grade anodized aluminum, the same aluminum used on boats. The bracing is never submerged in water. The aluminum frame WILL NOT CORRODE with typical aquarium fresh or saltwater use.

Can you drill Holes?

Yes, we can drill as many holes as you need for our H2Overflow® and Siphon Stoppers®. We can also drill almost any size hole for a custom overflow setup. Contact us for more information on glass hole drilling.

Can I drill them myself?

You can drill it yourself as long as it’s not tempered, and it’s thick enough to support the water pressure after the hole is drilled (minimum 1/2″ recommended). You can easily drill a hole yourself with our hole-drilling kits and template!

What is an epoxy background?

Epoxy is like a very durable paint. It’s permanent and can’t be removed later. The advantage of epoxy vs a sheet material that you tape on the back is it will not get wrinkly over time. Also, if water splashes or food falls behind the aquarium it can get between the background and the tank, making it very difficult to clean.

Do you have other colors than black or blue?

Though Mystic Black and Deep Sea Blue are our standard colors, we can apply almost any color upon request.

Is Glass Better than Acrylic?

When deciding between a glass or acrylic aquarium, you most often sacrifice the long-term benefit of glass for the short-term benefit of acrylic. Our goal is to mitigate the disadvantages of glass through our engineered fabrication, moving techniques, and ultra-clear material options. Read our Glass vs. Acrylic Page for a more in-depth analysis of acrylic and glass for aquarium use.

Is Ultra Clear that much clearer than regular clarity?

Ultra-clear glass has about the same strength as regular clarity of the same thickness. The difference is the Ultra-clear glass has a lower iron content, giving it an exceptionally clear look. If you look at a Regular Clarity fish tank full of water, it appears very clear and you won’t notice any tinting. However, if you looked at it immediately next to an Ultra-clear aquarium, there is a noticeable difference between the two.

Can I temper my glass?

Yes, we have a full glass fabrication capability and we’ll drill whatever holes you need and do any other fabrication within our ability for a reasonable extra charge before tempering. Holes must be drilled PRIOR to tempering. Once the glass is tempered, it can’t be drilled later.

How much stronger is tempered glass?

Tempering glass can add 5-10x the strength to the glass panel. The thicker the glass, the greater the impact tempering has on the strength. The tempering process superheats the panel, then cools it down rapidly. During this process, the exterior of the glass cools at a quicker rate than the interior. This difference in cooling rates creates tension, or “loading” of the molecules, making the glass significantly stronger.

Can I get tempered glass AND have holes drilled?

We’re located near one of the highest-quality tempering plants in the country, making it easier and more cost-effective than most of our competitors. And, we would be happy to drill whatever holes you need and do any other fabrication within our ability for a reasonable extra charge prior to tempering.

Seamless Sump®

Is the Seamless Sump® salt ready?

Yes, the sumps are molded with high-density polyethylene (HDPE). Nothing sticks to this material thus reducing the amount of unsightly salt creep. The Seamless Sump® is also designed to handle higher flow rates for reef setups. Easily include our H2Overflow® system and protein skimmers can also be plumbed in line with the system. We have skimmers available and can help you get all the hardware to easily install a skimmer with our Seamless Sump®.

Can the filter sock tub flood if the sock gets clogged?

If the sock pores clog in an extreme situation, the water will trickle over the top edge of the sock and continue through the system without causing a flood or shutting down the flow of the system. This is a tremendous advantage to our sock tub vs a standard filter system.

How many tubs can I connect to my aquarium?

An infinite number of tubs can be used. The Seamless Sump® is a modular system that utilizes as many sump tubs as needed to meet the needs of the aquarium.

Why do the tubs have glass lids?

Glass lids reduce both noise from the pumps and water evaporation in the tubs. Unlike acrylic tops, glass lids won’t warp or curl with moisture or turn yellow with UV light.

Can you use the Seamless Sump® with protein skimmers?

Yes, by adding our protein skimmer tub to your Seamless Sump® system. There is plenty of room in this tub for the protein skimmer and up to three large filter socks for your overflows. We also offer reef-ready protein skimmer sump packages.

How do I get cords for my heaters and pumps out of the sump tubs?

Baffle tubs come standard with a cord management grommet to get the cords out of your tub to connect your pumps, heaters, and other in-sump equipment without leaving a gaping hole for evaporation.

Why are the HDPE tubs better than the other acrylic tubs on the market?

HDPE tubs are one-piece molds, not glued or welded which creates weak spots. HDPE molded sumps have much stronger corner joints than glued or welded sumps. Molded HDPE tubs have smooth, rounded corners which are much easier to clean. HDPE is highly resistant to chemicals and solvents.

Can I fit the sump tubs under my stand?

Yes, because the system comes in 3 modular tubs, each tub fits easily through the front doors of most stands. This also makes ongoing maintenance much easier because it’s easy to unhook one tub at a time and remove it for deep cleaning.

Can I use the Seamless Sump® with an aquarium I already have?

Yes, the Seamless Sump® is compatible with most existing overflow systems on the market. You can also add our overflow to most existing aquariums (so long as the glass is not tempered). We offer hole drilling kits to help you drill a hole for our overflow.

H2Overflow®

What happens if the H2Overflow® gets clogged?

Our unique screen design lets larger particles through as the flow rate into the tank increases or as the finer teeth become clogged with particles. The teeth are small enough to prevent small food pellets from making their way to the sump. However, if particulates build up, eventually the teeth get further and further apart as the water level rises and you move up the overflow. This is a built-in safeguard against clogging.

Does the H2Overflow® have to be installed in the centered position?

No, The H2Overflow® can be ordered unglued and placed in any position to keep out of the way of other equipment, to eliminate any shadowing from aquarium lights, and to manipulate water flow.

How many H2Overflows® do I need?

Most aquarists try to cycle all the water in a well-balanced tank approximately 4 times per hour (can be more or less depending on the livestock, quantity, and water volume of your tank). Combined with our Seamless Sump®, which is a very efficient biological filter, your flow and cycle rate requirements are not likely as high as the general rule of thumb. Even so, if a 4 times turnover per hour rate is desired, only one H2Overflow® would be needed for setups up to 300 gallons!!! However, this is only a rule of thumb for setups with 1200GPH flow rates and less. Some setups prefer even higher flow rates for a higher safety factor. If this is the case, additional overflows can be added to accommodate excess capacity. Do you need more capacity? Just add another H2Overflow®!

Can I use an H2Overflow® on my existing aquarium?

Yes, as long as your aquarium does not have tempered glass, you can order our H2Overflow® hole drilling kit and use the H2Overflow® on your existing system!

How easy is the H2Overflow® to clean?

The top screen is held firmly in place by gravity, water flow, and a molded recess in the overflow. It is very easy to remove for cleaning purposes. The screen can also be held to the overflow with optional stainless-steel screws if more permanent fastening is desired or any other unusual application where you wish to place the overflow on its side.

Are the H2Overflows® quiet?

Yes, our H2Overflow® is among the quietest overflows on the market today! We include the H2Ovewrflow® noise reduction kit at no extra charge, which includes 2 differently sized grommets to reduce the drain hole to more closely match the drain rate to the return flow, which allows the H2Overflow® to run virtually silent. With the drain hole on the bottom, rather than the side, muffle the echo of water running through the tubing.

Will the overflow be in the way of my reef lights?

The Overflows have a narrow footprint thus not creating much shadowing over your corals. In most aquariums, the overflow will be placed under the cross brace of the frame. In this setup, the overflow creates no additional shadowing. You can also easily adjust the direction of the overflow to avoid shadows.

Will the overflow displace a lot of water?

The H2Overflow® displaces a very small amount of water, yet has a very high skimming capacity. Each H2Ooverflow® has approximately 17.5 lineal inches of skimming! Compare this to a typical corner overflow which would have only 6-8 inches of skimming that can easily clog, displaces several gallons of water, is in plain sight, and requires holes in the floor of your tank! (Holes in the floor of your tank, like most other overflows, create an exponentially greater risk of failure compared to holes in the upper back of your tank due to the increased water pressure at the bottom).

Will you see a water line with the H2Overflow®?

The unique design of the H2Overfow® allows you to maintain your water line above the bottom of the aquarium frame so you don’t see the unsightly water line as water evaporates. It also keeps it below the glass lid so you don’t have excessive evaporation. All evaporation takes place in your sump, not your aquarium. No more unsightly water line!!

Siphon Stopper®

Does the cap of the Siphon Stopper® need to be above the water line?

The output fitting goes above the water line, then back underwater to prevent excessive evaporation. This, plus allowing air to enter at the cap above the waterline will prevent a back siphon when a pump stops. In a typical configuration, the Siphon Stopper® cap will sit slightly above the waterline. You will see 2 small streams of water and a few bubbles. This lets you know it’s working properly and also provides surface aeration. If you want to eliminate air bubbles and noise, the Siphon Stopper® can be easily maneuvered to lower the height slightly below the waterline where you will no longer see any air bubbles or noise.

Why do I need 2 Siphon Stoppers® for each H2Overflow®?

2 Siphon Stoppers® are recommended for each H2Overflow® to allow for redundancy in the case of a pump failure. If one pump fails or gets clogged, you still have another to continue cycling water through the system. If you have only one Siphon Stopper® and the pump fails, you risk extreme fish loss if the pump is not immediately replaced. Plus, having a second Siphon Stopper® increases circulation.

Can I use your Siphon Stoppers® on my existing aquarium?

Yes, If your aquarium doesn’t have tempered glass you can order our Siphon Stopper® drill kit, and for those who can’t or don’t want to drill their aquarium, we have a hang-on-the-back version.

Can I change the nozzle of the Siphon Stopper®?

Yes, Siphon Stoppers® utilize readily available Loc-Line attachments leaving many different options for output nozzles. There are many diameters and shapes of the nozzle. You can also adjust the length of the fitting by adding additional sections of Loc-Line or even making it smaller by removing some of the knuckles that come with the Siphon Stopper®.

Will the Siphon Stopper® make noise or bubbles?

In the standard position, the Siphon Stopper® cap will sit just above the waterline. In this case, you will see two small streams of water as well as some bubbles near the surface of the aquarium. Many hobbyists like this configuration because it minimizes the amount of back siphon and at the same time provides surface aeration and gives you an easy way to monitor the fact that the Siphon Stopper® is working properly. However, if no bubbles or noise is desired it is very easy to adjust the height of the Siphon Stopper® by bending the elbows slightly. You can have the cap just below the waterline. You will still mitigate almost all of the back siphon and have zero noise or air bubbles.

Why do I need a Siphon Stopper®?

In the event of a loss of power to your water pumps for a variety of reasons, if your return output nozzle is below the waterline of the aquarium it can create a back siphon and can discharge water from your aquarium into your sump at a very quick rate. The lower your output nozzle is in your aquarium, the more water will discharge into your sump. The water will continue to back siphon into your sump until the water line in your aquarium is below the return nozzle or the introduction of enough air into the line has the chance to break the siphon (notice: air must be introduced at a specific point in the line to effectively and reliably break the siphon). If you do not have a Siphon Stopper®, catastrophic floods can happen. Check valves are notoriously failure-prone and are not a good solution.

Why is a Siphon Stopper® better than check valves?

Check valves require a perfect seal to work… the Siphon Stopper® does not. Typically, check valves are made with a spring or “flapper” flange that’s submerged in water continually. When the water stops, it pushes the flange shut by flowing in the opposite direction of the flange opening. If this flange has ANY flaw to it, it will not create a perfect seal. Without a perfect seal – it will leak. Our Siphon Stopper® design is inherently a much safer alternative to a check valve.

What if I want a stand style different than what you offer?

We have professional craftsmen on staff with decades of experience in our construction methods and high-precision tools. We are very confident that we can customize a stand style to your specific needs. From color-matching, size customization, or re-engineering, we have the experience and knowledge to build it to your specifications.

Are the Stands constructed with any particleboard?

The frames of our stands and canopies are 100% made in the USA with your choice of Ash, Oak, Maple, Cherry, Hickory, or Black Walnut. The back and top are matching ¾” veneer plywood. Our door panels and sides are also matching veneer plywood with solid hardwood frames. Even our painted stands and canopies are made from solid hardwood. We pay close attention to detail, and there is no particleboard used in any part of the construction of our canopies. Particleboard can swell and crack with moisture and is not a good material for any stand or canopy.

Can I order a stand without a canopy?

Yes, a stand can be ordered without a canopy and vice versa. However, our most popular aquarium sizes have a stand and canopy bundle for additional cost savings!

Do you have other color finishes available?

Each stand and canopy has the option of 1 of 4 water-based stain colors, 2 enamel paint colors, or you can request a custom stain to match your decor. Each hood and stand receive 2 coats of a water-based clear coat. To ensure high quality, we hand sand between coats of stain and clear coat. The results are second to none!

Why is there no top on the canopy?

Even with moisture-resistant material, venting, or perforated material, evaporation from the aquarium will eventually cause the canopy to deteriorate. This can also cause mold and the material itself to crack, warp, and bubble. It gets really bad, really quick. For this reason, all the canopy tops are an open concept.

Do your stands have a solid back and top? Why is that important?

Our stands come with a 3/4″ top and a solid 3/4″ plywood back. Most stands on the market don’t have a top or back, relying purely on the frame. A stand without a solid back or top is NOT strong enough to support a large aquarium for a lifetime. Having a solid top and back also helps with noise reduction from pumps, and other power equipment under the stand.

What kind of waterproof coating do your stands have?

Each aquarium has the option of 1 of 4 water-based stain colors, 2 enamel paint colors, or you can request a custom stain to match your decor. Each hood and stand receive 2 coats of a water-based clear coat. To ensure high quality, the hoods and stands are hand sanded between coats of stain and clear coat.

Delivery and Installation

How do I get the aquarium into my house?

With our refundable moving kits, most of our popular aquariums only require 2-4 people. Once you have a good grip and the weight is evenly distributed, it isn’t that difficult to move even a large aquarium. The biggest mistake people make is trying to move too much with too few people. Ask a friend or neighbor to give you a hand! It only takes a few minutes to do the heavy lifting.

Why is the lead time so long?

Our lead times include the aquarium arriving FULLY CURED. Other manufacturers will deliver your aquariums with instructions not to use them until a particular date because they are still curing – sometimes several days or weeks after you receive them. Also, shipping aquariums not fully cured can jeopardize the integrity because the structure can shift during transit. You will receive your aquarium from us ready to use!

Can I have Custom Aquariums do the install?

If a customer lives in an area where we have service reps, we can give a quote on an installation. If you’re outside of our service area, we can assist in finding an installation company in your area.

How do I qualify for free delivery?

Learn more about our Aquarium Shipping policy.

How do I know my aquarium will arrive intact?

Before shipping any order, it is completely strapped down and fully crated. We believe in going the extra mile with our packaging. Even though it costs more, it significantly reduces the likelihood of damage on the way to the customer. We ask that you inspect your new aquarium before signing for the delivery. If damage is found, do not sign for the package. Please contact us for further instructions.

Do I have to drive a long ways to pick up my aquarium, or will you deliver to my door?